World View
I wrote the following post back in early March and never posted it
as I was coming to terms with living out here. It got lost in the events of my
mother’s death and I’ve just rediscovered it so thought I’d post if for you, my
musings on how our world view is influenced by geography and our experiences growing
up.
World
view
World view is useful in that it helps us to make sense of the
world we live in, but it is important to note that it can also limit our
understanding of it so understanding your own view of the world and how it came
to be formed can help you to understand how other people’s views do not
necessarily gel with your own. For example, if you grew up in a reasonably well
off middle class family, where both parents were well educated and working so as to ensure you had financial security, and
you were given every opportunity to take part in social and sports activities
after school etc, that would impact on your outlook and view of the world-
you’d probably grow up thinking everyone has the same opportunities and access
to the things you have. Your experiences and world view would be very different
to someone who grew up in a large, poor family where every day was a struggle
to put food on the table and some days you went hungry. Your experience in
growing up in that environment would most likely give you a very different
perception of the world, and potentially, your place in it. Your attitude as to
whether or not you see value in education, in work, in owning your own home, in
the opportunities open to you can be impacted by your experiences growing up
and those experiences will help shape who you are and how you see the world and
your place in it.
Of late I’ve been pondering how geographic location affects
your worldview. The atolls of North and South Tarawa here in Kiribati are no
more than a few hundred metres wide at most, and usually less than a hundred. That
means that you can literally see from one side of your island home to the other
and it only takes a few minutes to walk from the lagoon side to the open ocean
side! This is very different to the world I grew up in, even an island country
like New Zealand most of us can see one, or other coast but not usually both at
the same time! The atolls of Tarawa are scattered around the circumference of
the lagoon, a long narrow strip of land linked by causeways, which in the north
can only be crossed to at low tide. In effect it is like living on the rim of a
giant fishbowl, most of which is full of water (Tarawa lagoon). A thin circular
ribbon of land, barely above the high tide mark, no more than a couple of
hundred metres wide right in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. The ocean around
Kiribati and the lagoon is at the heart of life here, it is both a highway for
travel and also provides food for the people.
There are no rivers here, no mountains, no hills, almost all
of the land is only 1-2m above sea level and the highest point, a small area
around Eita, is 3m in height and that is the highest point anywhere on these
islands! How does this reality affect
one’s outlook or view of the world? Seasons, what are seasons? It is hot and tropical
all year round, sure El Nina and El Nino weather patterns and the trade winds
do affect the climate here but you won’t get a winter season, at least not as I
know it. Speaking of which the most ironic T shirt I’ve seen here so far was
one being worn by a young man on his way to church. A bright orange T shirt
emblazoned on the front with the Stark’s motto from Game of Thrones: Winter Is
Coming. I pissed myself when I saw that one.
One of the features that influences world view here is
geographic isolation. The nearest major islands are several hundred, if not
thousands of kilometres away. North, South, East, West. It doesn’t matter which
direction you travel, the first land mass of any consequence is many, many
hundreds or thousands of kilometres away. I stand on the edge of the reef looking
south across the Pacific Ocean from my home here, knowing several thousand
kilometres away is my real home and that if I drew a straight line due south on
the map the next major land mass I would hit it is New Zealand or Antartica!
That blows my mind! So it is easy to imagine Tarawa as its own little world,
stuck right bang in the middle of the deep blue of the Pacific, hundreds of
kilometres from anywhere.
Kiribati can be seen as an micronism of the earth itself- the atolls
of South Tarawa especially are overpopulated and crowded and as a result are
dealing with all sorts of environmental and social problems associated with
this- just as the larger world is grappling with these issues. Indeed if
outsiders HAVE heard of these islands it is usually in regards to the impacts that
climate change and sea level rise are having here.
If you grew up here and have never been anywhere else how can
you really imagine what rolling green hills, or mountains, or even cities are
like? They are so far outside your everyday frame of reference. Sure these days
we have TV, the internet and books but even so is not quite the same as
experiencing them yourself. I’ve
discussed with the tutors here their experiences travelling overseas. All are
ex-seafarers having spent a decade or more at sea. Most have travelled the
world several times or more and have visited pretty much all the major ports
around the world. I can’t think of a more extreme culture shock than first
setting foot in New York or San Francisco, or Hong Kong or Yokohama/Tokyo after
having let Tarawa for the first time!
Life here for many people is probably not too dissimilar to
the way they have lived for generations. Time here seems to have a different
flow to it, one days appears to be very similar to the next, there is no real
change of seasons. The moon seems to play an important role though, influencing
the tides and fishing patterns and I guess for generations the moon, the ebb
and flow of the tides has been the main marker of time and daily life. Many of the people here still live a
subsistence existence relying on the sea to provide food and sustenance for
their families. Many of the young people I’ve been working with at MTC spend
their spare time fishing in the lagoon or ocean but most hope to, once they
have finished their studies, get a job overseas either on a ship or at an
Australian hotel resort so they can send money home to support their families.
Unfortunately, the reality is that many people living here
will never get the opportunity to travel and see the wider world beyond their
shores. Their perception of the world is framed by the lagoon, the atolls and
the other nearby outer islands which they came from, have family on, and may
call home. They may take a ferry to and from the outer islands, sometimes a
journey of several days, but for a sizable percentage of the population living
here they will probably never get the opportunity to fly even as far as Fiji;
airfares are prohibitively expensive for the average I-Kiribati. As a result of
this geographic isolation you might expect the I-Kiribati to be quite inward
looking and even insular in their outlook or worldview but that doesn’t seem to
be experience I’ve had. I’ve not met a more generous, happy and positive people
in a long, long time. People realise the world beyond their shores is impacting
on their lives here and the steady stream of consultants and volunteers visiting
just underlines this to them.
The ocean surrounding these atolls is their life blood and has
been for centuries; it is both a highway and a garden, providing bountiful food
and yet, as people are no doubt aware, this ocean is now a potential threat to
their long term survival. Will these atolls sink beneath the waves as some are
predicting? Who knows for sure but no matter what happens the world outside, as
well as growing population pressure from within, will continue to put pressure
on this very fragile environment and continue to have major consequences for
the people of these islands.
I’ve discussed this idea of worldview with a couple of other volunteers
and consultants, trying to organise my thoughts on it and get my head around
how these islands impact on your view of the world and your place in it. One of
the consultants out here, and a former volunteer, an Aussie named AJ, I think summed
it up best. The difference in world view, he told me, really come down to one
thing. Choices. We I-Matung (foreigners) have choices. He’s right. I’m here for a year as a guest of
these amazing people. No matter if I’m enjoying it here, or finding day to day
life a struggle (which I’m not), I know I have an end date and at the end of 12
months can leave here and return to my “real” life. I have choices. Coming here
was a choice; it was my decision to take a year out from my regular life and
live in another, little known to me, part of the world. It was a decision I
made and I was lucky enough to be in a position to be able to have that choice.
I am extremely fortunately to have landed in such a wonderful, warm, welcoming
country but also know I have the good fortune to have choices as to where I
live, and what I do.
The average I-Kiribati person doesn’t have the same choices or
options available to them. Many will spend their lives on these, now, quite crowded
atolls. Some will and do leave and often it is in the hope of finding work to
remit money home, but many won’t have an opportunity to leave their small,
fragile island home. The world outside is impacting on the lives of the people
here and they are facing all sorts of social, economic and environmental issues
which they are struggling to deal with. However, just have they have done for
the past however many centuries, the people will continue to exist and their unique
culture thrive in this, small, barely known corner of the Pacific. The endless
Pacific Ocean will continue to be at the heart of their world and it will
continue to be pretty damn easy to forget that the world exists beyond where
the ocean meets the sky on the impossibly blue horizon of Kiribati.
Craig
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